Route 66

I decided to drive Route 66 the night my kneecap popped off in the bathroom of the lodge at Camp Wesley Woods. Driving home in the wee hours after a trip to the emergency room, staying awake by rolling the windows down to let in the brisk October air, the delirium of the pain, the oldies on the radio...that's when I officially announced, "I'm going to drive Route 66." I am lucky to have three wonderful, adventurous, history geek friends who are ready to hit the road with me.

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

ob·ses·sion - Compulsive preoccupation with a fixed idea

Figment and I flew to Iowa this past weekend for my cousin's wedding. My parents received the Route 66 materials they ordered from Amazon, so we spent some of the weekend flipping through their books (among other things, they ordered the new 3rd edition of the Route 66 Adventure Handbook, which seems to be significantly expanded from the 2nd edition). Their plan is to take a month to do the Route, so an average of about 100 miles a day with some extra days for side trips and general whimsy. I'm eyeing the Flagstaff-to-Santa Monica section and thinking, "Hmmmm...I could take a week and do that part again!"

I'm also been scheming that perhaps I could trick Dave into driving the road one weekend at a time. We fly into Chicago on a Friday night, fly out of St. Louis on a Sunday night. Come back a few months later and fly into St. Louis and then out of Tulsa. Tulsa to Amarillo, Amarillo to Santa Fe, etc. etc. Think he'll catch on?

We are planning to see "Cars" on Friday night. Perhaps that will be the push he needs to realize that this is the greatest vacation ever.

Thursday, June 22, 2006

The homecoming

What I saw when I walked in the door tonight:


Ooooh, check the return address!


Break out the scissors...


Figment!!!


We have a joyful reunion. He doesn't seem too pissed off at me. And tomorrow he gets to fly to Iowa!

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Random thoughts, disappointing realizations and moments of clarity

Random thought 1: I strongly advise anyone over the height of 5'10" to be prepared to squat in the shower to get their hair wet. As the tallest in our party (at a mere 6'0"), I frequently found the hotel showerheads to be designed more for the shorter members of society. I almost felt like sitting down in some of the showers in order to get completely under the shower spray. Apparently people travelling the Route were shorter back in the day, much to my chagrin. However, I practiced knee bends and my calves are now in excellent shape.

Moments of Clarity
About halfway through our trip, I realized that if you are fanatical about any of the following, you will absolutely ADORE Route 66:
  • Restored gas stations. I know little about vintage gas stations, but we stopped at many of them which have been restored, and most of them were downright adorable. At our first gas station stop, Nathan explained some of the oil pumping techniques, so we were able to smartly identify such objects in the other numerous towns we stopped at. Some had the history of the station posted in windows, others were notable due to their architecture (U Drop Inn), and for the random duck attacks (Red Oak II).
  • Bridges. I'm a history geek, not an architecture one. But I do know about pony trusses now and how unique certain bridges are on the Route. And they are lovely. I especially liked the one in Kansas and Devil's Elbow. I'm sure I'll like the Chain of Rocks bridge in St. Louis once I go back and see it in the daylight. I know if I was really into bridge architecture/engineering, I would be in hog heaven on this trip.
  • Neon signs. Our guidebooks (or maybe it was just Jerry) pointed out cool neon signs along the way, some of them being restored (Blue Swallow Motel in Tucumcari), others just pointing to empty lots (Asuza drive-in). But if you have a photographic eye and a love for old neon signs, this trip will give you a treasure mine of material.
  • Frontage roads. I realize that there's not a lot of people who are real hip on the Frontage Roads, but if there's someone out there, please go on Route 66. You'll love it! It almost became a chorus in the Montana as we would cross the interstate and then turn on (everybody now) THE FRONTAGE ROAD!
Of course, this is not to say that if you do not enjoy these items that the trip is awful. Quite the contrary--you'll learn more about things like bridge trusses and still have a fantastic time. I'm just saying if you're a huge fan of any of these items, you'll definitely love this trip.

Disappointing realization: Paul Shirley is now back in Kansas City. As the only single person on the trip, I was hoping to either meet a park ranger or happen to run into Paul Shirley while in Santa Monica (because the odds of that are so high in a city of thousands of people). I even told Ann to keep an eye out for anyone who was 6'10" while we were out. We saw no one who fit that description.

For those blissfully unaware, I do have a bit of a cyber crush on Mr. Shirley, who played basketball for Iowa State, various teams in the NBA, and now writes a bitingly clever and funny column on espn.com and was in LA writing and producing a sitcom pilot loosely based on his experience in the NBA. As one of my more sane friends pointed out, I probably wouldn't have had the courage to actually talk to him if I did spot him somewhere, so it's probably better for all involved if I just admire from afar.

And Becky, if I do end up with Paul, you can have Keith Murphy. I promise.

Random thought 2: I was completely and thoroughly charmed by Santa Fe. Northwest New Mexico was a lot prettier than I thought it would be, and driving through Santa Fe right after a bit of rain was truly wonderful. All the adobe buildings, the downtown plaza, no bugs, cool evenings, desert flowers, I truly fell in love. All the street names were in Spanish, so I felt right at home. We all agreed it was someplace we'd love to return to and spend more time exploring museums, wandering the streets and sampling more food. It's one of the oldest cities in the country and I look forward to returning there someday.

Monday, June 12, 2006

People are nice in L.A.

We let ourselves sleep in a little on Saturday morning, figuring that no matter when we hit the road, there would be traffic, so we might as well be well rested. We bid farewell to the Wigwams around 9:30 a.m.





Foolish optimists that we are, we called the Viceroy and told them we'd be there around noon and asked if we could check in early. Foolish, foolish girls!

Our first intended stop was Bono's Restaurant, but as we pulled into the turn lane in front of the restaurant, we noticed that it was undergoing some sort of renovation/construction, so we kept on going. We kept an eye out for some of the other vintage businesses along the way as well, taking note of the Sycamore Inn, the Magic Lamp Inn, Wolfe's Market and others.

We set our hearts on Flappy Jack's Pancake House in Glendora for brunch. We had about a 20-minute wait (I tried to sweet talk them by telling them we had just driven Route 66 and they seemed quite impressed, but not enough to move us to the top of the list), but it went by quickly and it did give us a chance to stretch out on the front lawn and enjoy the California weather.



Perhaps because we were on a regular four-lane city street and not the freeway, and perhaps because it was Saturday morning/early afternoon, the traffic was no more hectic than any other city in America. It took us a while, but it's not like we were sitting there cursing the L.A. traffic. I believe Tom Snyder encourages people in his book to just hop on the freeway at this point, and if you've already driven this stretch before I can see his point, but if you haven't done it, please stay on the Route. It's well worth doing once.

We made a short detour to stop at one of my personal meccas, Dodger Stadium. The original plan was that we would come into L.A. on a night when the Dodgers were in town, but it just didn't work with our schedule. Thankfully, the Dodgers are pretty cool about letting people come inside the stadium gift shop and into the upper deck. The highway patrolman and the security guard who directed us to the right parking lot were both unfailingly polite and made us feel so welcome there. I had to exercise a lot of self-control in the gift shop - I managed to walk out with just a long-sleeve t-shirt.






We caught a brief glimpse of the Hollywood sign and lots of glimpses of people celebrating gay pride weekend as we made our way to Santa Monica. It seemed sort of surreal to finally be there and be done with the trip!

We pulled into the Viceroy around 3 p.m. and the valets were like a SWAT team - four of them rushed up and opened all the doors of the van. They loaded up our multitude of bags onto a luggage cart and we checked into our room. Now I have loved every hotel we stayed at along the way and I'm looking forward to doing this trip again so I can stay at more of the famous vintage lodgings, but the Viceroy was sweeeeet. We had a room on the top floor overlooking the ocean. The maid brought us chocolates. The bathroom was huge and luxurious. It was definitely the right way to end the trip!





After taking a few minutes to relax, we headed for the pier and the beach. We walked north from the pier a little, playing a couple games of "Retrieve Ann's Flip Flops from the Ocean" along the way and one unfortunate game of "Watch Ann's Sunglasses Get Swept Into the Ocean After Retrieving Her Flip Flops." We walked back to the pier and stood out there watching the people and the ocean for a little while before making a jaunt up to the nearby ped mall to investigate restaurants for dinner.




My friends Marci, Laurie and Lynn met us at the hotel at 6:30 and we walked up to Café Crepe on the ped mall for dinner. I can't remember what everyone else got, but I had a spinach and feta crepe that was everything I hoped it would be and more. While at the restaurant, we were introduced to the concept of needing to get tokens to go to the restoom. I guess it's to prevent people from coming in off the street and using the restaurant's facilities? You have to get a token from an employee and then you can get into the bathroom, as Marci informed us.




After another short walk around the ped mall, we went back to the hotel and spent the remainder of the evening just chatting and hanging out. When the rest of the Route 66 girls started feeling a little tired, Marci, Laurie, Lynn and I retired to the lobby of the hotel. Apparently the Viceroy is some sort of scene for wannabe hipsters who want to see and be seen? ("What's the difference between a wannabe hipster and a real hipster?" Dave asked. "If I like them, they're a real hipster. If I don't, they're totally a poseur.") They stayed a little bit longer and when they left, I knew I should go to bed because I was tired...but when am I going to have the chance to observe a scene like this? So I wandered around the pool area, watching with amusement as everyone tried very hard to be beautiful and interesting.

I spent a few minutes talking to a couple of young Iranian men. They had both moved to America within the past 10 years to "pursue the American dream." They weren't familiar with Route 66, so I tried to give a brief history, but at 1:30 in the morning I think their attention spans were somewhat limited.

The hotel staff started closing things down, so I hit up the bartender for one last club soda with lime and asked him why people come here to hang out. His answer? "I have no idea. It's been four years and they still pack this place. I don't know why." He asked what brought me there and we talked about the trip a little bit before I retired to the room around 2 a.m.

Boy, did 6:45 ever come early! I made the mistake of hitting snooze and we ended up being a little rushed. The valets brought the car around, with bottles of Evian in each of the cup holders. We drove down Lincoln Boulevard to the Budget drop-off at LAX and said our goodbyes to the good old Montana (with a comment that they may want to change the oil!) before hopping on the shuttle to the terminal.

I flew out to Atlanta at 10:20 and the rest of the gang flew to Milwaukee an hour or so later.



So that's the nuts and bolts of our trip. I'm anxious to get a little free time to kick back and really think about the trip - what I learned, what I liked best, what I will definitely do and not do next time (there must be a next time). My parents are talking about doing the Route and Ann's mom wants to do it with one of her girlfriends, too. I don't know if I'll be able to let them go without me!

It's hard to believe it's over. After all these years of talking about it, we finally did it. And if I had the chance, I start all over again tomorrow.

I cry over found dragons, too!

All is well! Figment is at the Hill Top in Kingman! The woman I talked to said they accidentally washed him with the sheets, but otherwise he's a-ok and will be on his way to North Carolina soon.

Why yes, I do cry over lost dragons

I've finished resizing and uploading pictures from the final day, so I'll try to post those sometime yet today.

My flight landed in Raleigh around 10:40 last night. The luggage finally made it to the carousel around 11:20 and we headed home. Almost exactly at midnight, I walked into the bedroom to go to bed and about had a heart attack.

I confess, there are two stuffed animals who regularly share our bed. One is Pledge the Cow, a gift from Dave from a few years ago. The other is Figment, a stuffed dragon I bought at Epcot during a family vacation in the 80s. Since then, Figment has travelled all over the United States and Europe with me. He's my little travel buddy.

We can all see where this is going, right?

I walked into the bedroom and saw Pledge sitting on the bed and that's when it hit me: I was sure Figment wasn't in my backpack anymore. I ran back out to the living room and dumped the contents of my backpack and my duffel bag onto the floor. No Figment. The last time I remember having him for sure is Thursday night at the Hill Top in Kingman.

It was only 9 p.m. their time, so I called the Hill Top right away and was told I need to call back after 10 a.m. their time today and talk to housekeeping. I called the Rialto Wigwams and the Viceroy as well, just to be sure, and they said nothing had been found.

So I think he's in Kingman, Arizona, and I'm anxiously biding my time until it's 10 a.m. there and I can call.

Not only is this distressing because Figment has been my travelling companion for so many years, but I also have a bad habit of assigning human emotional capabilities to inanimate objects. So even though Figment is just a pile of material and stuffing, I imagine him out there in Arizona wondering where the heck I am and why I left him behind and it makes me all sad. After we got into bed, I had to have Dave remind me that Figment isn't wondering where I am because he's not real.

So everyone please pray/keep their fingers crossed/send good vibes that Figment is, in fact, safely in the care of the housekeeping staff at the Hill Top and that he'll soon be making his way back to me in North Carolina.

Sunday, June 11, 2006

Hero worship in San Bernardino

Friday morning we hit the road around 8:30 a.m. again. If we hadn't, we'd probably still be driving the Oatman Highway! Ann did a tremendous job of driving and we were content to cruise along at less than 15 mph and enjoy the scenery.

Just before we started on that section, we took one final group picture, so if anything happened to us, you'd at least know we made it as far as Cool Springs! The 1926 Mobil station is absolutely adorable. The woman who was working there said that a burro had been born near the station earlier in the week, but we never did see any burrows or sheep roaming around along the road.





We headed on past Ed's Camp, noting the saguaro cactus along the road. Very few families seem to live in this area, which is why we were greatly amused when Sherrie pointed out a sign advertising a garage sale. In her words, with such a small number of people around, why don't you all just bring your junk to one person's house and exchange it?

A short distance beyond Ed's Camp we pulled off to the side and climbed up the rock steps to see the seep at Shaffer's Fish Bowl Springs. Just past Sitgreaves Pass, we came around a corner and saw a vehicle pulled off to the side, going the opposite direction. We were going so slow that it was easy to stop when she rolled down her window as we approached. She leaned out and asked if this was the road to Kingman. We affirmed that she was headed towards Kingman. She asked how far it was and we told her it had taken us about two hours to get this far, although we had made a couple stops along the way. As we pulled away, Jen commented, "Is she really driving through the desert without a map???" I like getting off the beaten path as much as anyone, but in a desolate environment like western Arizona, I don't think I'd do it without having some idea of where I was going!

As we headed down from Sitgreaves Pass, we saw an old car that obviously hadn't made one of the turns and joked that this stretch of road would be a killer if you had to drive it for driver's ed. Almost on cue, a driving school car came up around the corner towards us. I don't know who I feel sorrier for - the student or the instructor!

Next up was Oatman. We stopped to eat some frybread at the Olive Oatman Restaurant and Saloon and we took a couple pictures with the resident burros, but overall the town just reeked of Tourist Trap. We soon piled back into the Montana and tackled the final stretch to California.




Just after crossing the Colorado, we stopped to get pictures of the stone Route 66 billboard and the old bridge, which now supports a gas pipeline.





We topped off the gas tank in Needles and made sure we had plenty of beverages and salty foods. (Earlier in the week, Sherrie shared that she had read somewhere that it's essential for you to have salt in your body in order for it to be able to process any water you take in. Except she was driving as she was telling us this little factoid and I think she got a little distracted, and so the story ended with a warning that without salt we could drown in a bathtub. There was a silence until one of us piped up, "I'm sorry, what was that about drowning in a bathtub in the desert?" You probably had to be there, but it was quite funny at the time, and led to a week's worth of jokes about salt and bathtubs in the desert.)

Well stocked with beef jerky, Corn nuts and Gatorade, we left Needles (after a brief interlude in which we couldn't figure out how to get on the road and ended up driving off onto the shoulder and in a circle around a hitchhiker - poor guy, he probably thought we were going to pick him up and we just drove around him and drove off!).

Because the temperature was ranging from 97 to 110 degrees, we voted against joining the other travellers who have constructed their names out of rocks by the side of the road. Our first stop was the Shoe Tree. Unfortunately, we didn't have any extra shoes of our own to add.




Every single one of our guidebooks recommended stopping at Roy's in Amboy. Every. Single. One. We pulled into Amboy and drove up to the café, which looked pretty darned closed. At the same time, a man came out of the café and drove towards us on a golf cart, so we rolled down the window and asked him if the café was open. He looked at us as though we were completely addled and said, "Um, no." He said he did have water, if we wanted some of that. We politely thanked him and drove on (if by "politely" I mean that as soon as the windows were rolled up, we slagged on him for being such a jerk to us).



With Roy's off the list, we drove on to Ludlow and stopped for a tasty lunch at the Ludlow Café.



We slowed down to view many of the Route 66 ruins along the way to Barstow, but kept on moving. I guess by the time we got to California, a restored gas station or an abandoned business needed to be pretty darned special to get our attention!

We made it to Barstow just in time to spend a few minutes at the Route 66 museum. They had some interesting exhibits and a nice gift shop.

Unfortunately we got to Helendale a little too late and the Exotic World Burlesque Museum was closed. I guess that will have to wait until next time! We did stop at the Bottle Tree Ranch and made one last bridge stop as well.






Then it was time for the final stretch into San Bernardino and Rialto. I had no idea the landscape would be as beautiful as it was. The mountains were so scenic - not at all how I imagined it. As mentioned earlier, the Wigwams in Rialto are very nice now. Not the Ritz-Carlton, but very pretty and clean for a Wigwam! You can tell they've all recently been repainted and that they're being taken care of now.





The agenda for the night included an Inland Empire 66ers game. We arrive a few minutes after the start of the game, found our seats and indulged in the advertised $1 tacos. If you ever have a chance, check out a game here. The stadium has distinctive Southwest architecture and the tacos were to die for. We ate a few to start, and then made ourselves promise that we would wait until the 6th inning before deciding whether to go back and get more (we did).

On our way back from our second taco run, we actually ran into some locals who go to college in little Oskaloosa, Iowa. What are the chances of that?




Early on in the evening, there had been a call at the plate and the opposing manager had come out to argue the call and had been ejected from the game. At the time, we joked about how those arguments are always so melodramatic, and the opposing manager sure did get into it.

I always buy a program at minor league games because I like to read the front office staff bios and see if I know anyone from my short stint in minor league baseball. Unless I'm blind, the 66ers don't have staff bios in their program (Note to 66ers: Can you do somethinga bout that?), so I put the program away and didn't look at it again until later in the game. That's when I noticed that Brett Butler was listed as the opposing manager.

Brett Butler! Growing up as a Dodger fan in Iowa, I loooooved Brett Butler. He and Orel Hershiser were two of my favorite players - he was undoubtedly a stellar lead-off hitter and I admired him not only for his skills but for coming back after throat cancer and for his grace and dignity.

Ann and I made a run down to the bullpen and talked to one of the players to confirm that it was indeed Brett Butler. He said that Brett was probably hanging out in the locker room after being ejected, but we could catch him on his way to the bus after the game.

I really wanted to meet him, but I was a little nervous, too. He'd been ejected from the game, his team lost - he might be in a bad mood and what if he wasn't really as nice a guy as I believed him to be? I don't like finding out my heroes are really jerks (which is why I don't like to hear anyone's stories about meeting Paul Simon!).

We quizzed the bus driver and he said that he didn't think Brett Butlet would punch me in the face if I approached him, but he might be in a cranky mood. Cue anxiety. I also felt bad for making Jen, Ann and Sherrie wait on my account, but Ann was happy to wait with me and Jen had her knitting and Sherrie had a new book from the Barstow museum, so wait we did.

He finally came out of the locker room and approached the bus. I walked up to him and said, "Mr. Butler?" He stopped. I told him that growing up in Iowa, I had been a huge fan of his and I really admired him and just wanted to tell him that. He put down his bags, shook my hand and asked my name. Ann and I introduced ourselves and we started chatting. He apologized that we had to wait so long for him and apologized for getting ejected for the first time in his career on the night we were there. He asked if we were coming to any of the other games this weekend and graciously allowed us to take pictures with him. He seemed really interested in our trip and was wonderfully polite and conversational. Wheeeeeeee! What an exciting way to end the day! I thanked the girls over and over again for being willing to wait - what great friends, huh?




With one minor "Oops, wrong turn...hey, we're on the freeway!" moment, we made it back to the Wigwams and enjoyed a good night's sleep before setting off on the final 70 miles of the trip.

Saturday, June 10, 2006

From Chicago to L.A.

We made it!

I'm sitting in the lobby of the Viceroy Santa Monica relaxing before we go out for dinner. I forgot to bring the camera down with me, so I can't upload pics right now, but I thought I'd let everyone know that we made it. It took us about five hours to drive the final 70 miles, but by golly, we've seen the L.A. area and we had some awesome pancakes along the way.

Our hotel room is phenomenal. My friend Angela set us up and we have a gorgeous view of the ocean. After checking in, we walked down to the pier and then walked along the beach for a while.

More to come later!

Almost there!

We're getting ready to hit the road from Rialto to Santa Monica. I can't believe we're so close! Yesterday was a great drive from Kingman, through the scary steep stretches and down through the desert and then into San Bernardino and Rialto. We'll try to post pictures tonight if there's time. The Rialto Wigwams are beautiful - the guidebooks that say they've been restored are spot on.

Some highlights from yesterday, until we can get the full recap posted:
- The absolutely charming stone Cool Springs Mobil Station
- Traveling along at a racing 12 mph through the steep, windy roads of western Arizona
- Not a higlight: Oatman. We found it rather off-putting and depressing. But the fry bread was good and the burros are cute!
- Seeing the Colorado River. Ann says that we always thought the water in the Raging River at Adventureland always looked fake, but surprisingly, some rivers are that strange blue-green color.
- The shoe tree
- 110 degrees!
- Not a highlight: Roy's Café. Hey buddy, when all our guidebooks say it's open and we should stop, don't look at us like we're mentally deficient when we ask you if it's open!
- The gorgeous mountains into San Bernardino
- A perfect night for an Inland Empire 66ers baseball game
- And the capper of the night, meeting one of my childhood baseball heroes (For those of you who know me well, it's wasn't Orel, but it was a very close second!)

Friday, June 09, 2006

We're movie stars! Or suckers.

It’s always a good morning when you wake up in a Wigwam! We certainly enjoyed our accommodations last night.





Today was our earliest morning yet. We actually hit the road by 8:30! As we passed the post office in Joseph City, we pulled over and I hopped out to mail a postcard to my grandpa. I had a couple to mail, but I figured I’d mail one from one location and the second from another location and maybe they’d get there on separate days? Anyway, I hopped back in the van and looked at the second postcard and realized that it had no address on it at all yet. Which made me think, “Uhhhhh, did I put the address on the postcard I just mailed?” It either has absolutely no address on it at all, or it might be addressed to his name, the retirement community he lives in, and the town. If it’s the latter, here’s hoping a kind postal employee in Joseph City will help me out and send it on its way.

Our first stop of the day was the famous Jackrabbit Trading Post, where we picked up more souvenirs.




From there it was on to Winslow for the Standing on the Corner statue. It’s still fenced off from the fire in 2004, but is fun to see nonetheless. I had to exhibit quite a bit of willpower to avoid buying another t-shirt at the store across the street.



We stopped at the Meteor City Trading Post to take our picture with the World’s Longest Map of Route 66. It's hard to see, but there was a bit of an issue with me beating the timer again. I'm sprinting as fast as I can towards the Catoosa Whale!



After that we drove on to the next exit and headed south of the route to actually see the famed meteor crater. Seeing as how we had driven through the Painted Desert/Petrified Forest for $10/vehicle yesterday, we had high hopes that the meteor crater would be somewhere between $3 and $5 per person.

$15 per person! We were lightly hopping up the stairs when we all looked up and saw that sign and stopped dead in our tracks. Call us cheap Dutchmen, but we decided that $60 for the four of us to look at a hole in the ground was not in the cards. Back on the road again, where for absolutely free when enjoyed a spirited sing along to “Can’t Fight This Feeling Anymore” on the radio.

We pulled off to see the abandoned Twin Arrows next. They’re still standing, but looking a little less arrow-ish as parts fall off.




Not too long after this, we ran into a storm. It went something like this:

11:15:00 Ran into fierce and noisy hail storm.
11:15:15 Contemplated pulling over until storm passed
11:15:30 Told Jen she could pull over if she wanted to.
11:16:00 Drove out of storm. Felt relieved that we were not sitting on the side of the road like idiots

11:38:00 Drove into baby hail storm. Scoffed at it and drove on.

It rained off and on for a good part of the day, but luckily it never affected our plans.

As we drove through Flagstaff, we contemplated that this would be the perfect place for us to buy a campground when we all retire sometime around 2040. It’s so wooded and beautiful! We decided that if we had been driving down Route 66 during the Depression, we would’ve said phooey to California once we got to Flagstaff.

We took the gravel alignment past Bellemont, one of the biggest treats of the day. We pulled off near the Auto Tour sign just before Parks and set off hiking down the out-of-use 1931 alignment towards the Spring House that used to pump water for the nearby campground. On the way back, we detoured through the woods to pick up the even more decrepit 1921 alignment.

The hike was a nice break to the day. Believe it or not, after all this time together in the van we still haven’t run out of things to talk about. Topics of discussion on the hike included:

1. If we bought a campground near here in 2040, we could also buy a 1920s- or 1930s-era vehicle and give little tours up and down this stretch of the road.
2. Imagine the pioneers who settled the west in wagon trains, going maybe 10-20 miles a day. If they had veered 18 miles round trip the wrong direction off the path to go look at Volkswagons buried in the ground, that would’ve been two wasted days! (Any discussion of the errant Lonely Planet map is followed by Sherrie declaring, “Lonely Planet can burn!”) (Ok, to be fair, aside from that Texas map, the Lonely Planet book is quite handy and packs a lot of information into a small book.)
3. Jennifer really should marry a park ranger. Hey, we’ve got a blog. Let’s see if we can find a single park ranger for Jen!
4. How does a road go from being paved to being gravel? Do they dump a bunch of gravel on top of the pavement, figuring that as people drive over it, the gravel will break up the pavement and it will all mix together? (Dave? Clarification?)






The four of us were in Williams together just over two years ago, so we didn’t spend a lot of time here. We took our picture underneath the same Route sign we used two years ago, and then headed out of town, noting with amusement that perhaps we should retire to nearby Cataract Lake. (“There is no lake. There’s just a sheet of blue plastic. Look at it shimmer!”)




We chose the Snow Cap Drive-In in Seligman for lunch, a very good decision. The hamburgers were incredible and the fries were perfect. As we were sitting there, a group of four guys was eating and milling around the site as well. After our meal, we asked one of them to take our picture in front of the car next to the Snow Cap.

That turned into a conversation about how they are working on An Internet Film Project for a Well-Known Company That We Are Not Allowed to Talk About and suddenly we were signing releases and confidentiality statements and being interviewed on film about our trip. We figure either there really is a film project, or they just came up with a really elaborate scheme to steal our identities. Just to be on the safe side, we surreptitiously took their pictures and wrote down their license plate number.



We made really good time today (I guess leaving at 8:30 helped!), and after a stop to take our picture next to a giant Tiki, we cruised into Kingman before 6 p.m. We took a dip in the pool (admiring the Best View in Kingman) and then drove downtown for a delicious dinner at the Hotel Brunswick.





Tomorrow: California!